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Hello.

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It is still November.

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The heat just kicked&nbsp;on, but I don't care.

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And today, I'm going to make 
my car charging station boil water very quickly.

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And I'm going to do it using this British kettle
which I have made work with a car charging station

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using this very cursed adapter 
I built using very cursed parts.

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Now, before I hear any complaints&nbsp;
about the effort that got put into this one,

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this video is basically a repeat of that time&nbsp;
I made a shop heater with a J1772 connector,&nbsp;&nbsp;

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allowing me to use my car charging station as a&nbsp;
nice and convenient power cable

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that delivers 240 volts AC (which in case you didn't know, is all&nbsp;
a level two charging station actually does).

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But this time I put that connector onto an electrical&nbsp;
box and on the other side of it...

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is this horrible thing.

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But more on that later.

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You might wonder&nbsp;why I've done this.

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Well, you see, I have a few British friends who have all expressed frustration&nbsp;at how slow electric kettles are here in the US.

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Because of our 120 volt household power&nbsp;and the desire to maintain compatibility with smaller 15 amp circuits,

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most ordinary&nbsp;appliances are limited to 1,500W of power,

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and kettles are no exception.

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Put that much&nbsp;power into a liter of room temperature water, and it will take about 4 minutes for that water to&nbsp;boil.

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Now, personally, I think that's plenty fast

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but because the Brits have 13 amps of&nbsp;
230 volt power at every receptacle,

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they can shove three whole 
kilowatts of power into&nbsp;their water boily things.

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And because they can, they do.

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And today, they're so used to this

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that&nbsp;the absurdity of a plastic countertop appliance sucking down more power than my home's central&nbsp;air conditioner

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just doesn't quite register.

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Fun fact, the BBC used to have to share when&nbsp;breaks in their programming would happen with the National Grid

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because half a million people&nbsp;getting up 
to put the kettle on all at the same time

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meant there was suddenly a large nuclear&nbsp;
reactor's worth of power draw to be dealt with.

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For making tea.

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And other hot beverages, probably.

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Ooh, maybe even porridge.

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Uh, anyway, after I made that video on 
the shop heater powered by my&nbsp;charging station,

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a certain slow-mo guy named Gav suggested 
I make a kettle that works with a car&nbsp;charger.

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That sounded delightfully up my alley,

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so I promised I would make that happen.

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And&nbsp;here we go!

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First, I would need to get my hands on a kettle designed to work with the 240 volt&nbsp;electricity my car charging station puts out.

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So, I imported this British kettle, 
which draws&nbsp;the customary 3,000 watts from the wall.

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Next, I would need a way 
to power this kettle from&nbsp;my charging station.

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Now, I could have done the sensible thing,

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which would be to build an&nbsp;adapter 
like this with a NEMA 6-20 receptacle

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and then cut the end off of this cord 
and connect it&nbsp;up to a NEMA 6-20 plug.

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But a while ago, someone on the internet 
made me aware that Leviton sells this&nbsp;thing.

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Yes, this is a real product you can buy for some reason.

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The Leviton BSRDP-W is a single&nbsp;BS1363 receptacle 
designed to fit into a North American junction box.

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Why on Earth do they sell&nbsp;this?

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I have no idea!

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There's no way this would be 
to code anywhere you might install it.

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[sudden muzak]

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Okay, so&nbsp;this instruction sheet made me dig a little deeper

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and it would seem that Saudi Arabia's current&nbsp;
SASO standards call for type G plugs and sockets

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(that's the British one).

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But it seems that in the&nbsp;past they and/or perhaps other Gulf countries were following NEMA standards for junction boxes, etc.

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This device meets SASO standards

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and that little symbol above the 0007 is the 
Gulf Conformity Mark&nbsp;of the Gulf Cooperation Council

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and so I think it is intended 
for use in retrofit situations in&nbsp;those countries.

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So it's got a real use case... but certainly not here.

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Because we use split-phase power&nbsp;over here, 
nothing you might plug into this will be correctly wired.

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It will function just fine - no electrical load knows the difference

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- but these two pins will both be live at 120 volts potential&nbsp;to ground, which means depending on how a device was wired,

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it may always be energized, even&nbsp;if switched off.

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Which might be shocking.

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Now, Leviton was smart enough to make sure this switch&nbsp;
is a double pole switch that isolates both pins.&nbsp;&nbsp;

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But still, this is all kinds of weird!

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And yet&nbsp;it exists.

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So, I threw together this adapter, which simply has 
the line one, line two, and&nbsp;ground pins of the J1772 connector

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wired directly to the cursed receptacle on the other side.

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Am I showing you what's inside of here?

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No!

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And to make the charging station think it's&nbsp;
plugged into a car which is requesting power,

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the control pilot pin is connected to the ground&nbsp;
pin through an 882ish ohm resistor and a diode.

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Now plugging this into my 
charging station causes&nbsp;it to go [clack]

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and energize this receptacle 
with the correct voltage but in the wrong way.

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It will&nbsp;work, though.

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So let's do a little test.

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Here's an American kettle plugged into the wall 
and bringing&nbsp;this much water to a boil.

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This is almost exactly one liter, but not quite.

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The important thing&nbsp;is 
I'm using the exact same amount of water with every test.

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The water was 63.7° F or 17.6 C.

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And with the kettle pulling about 1,460 watts, it took 4 minutes and 5 seconds to hit my subjective&nbsp;definition of boiling.

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And for a slightly less subjective definition, 
the kettle switched itself&nbsp;off at 4 minutes 17 seconds.

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But I had a second American kettle to test.

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This cheaper model has&nbsp;an exposed heating element.

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And since it becomes completely submerged when filled with water,

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there are absolutely no heat losses to the air below the kettle.

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That doesn't matter very much,&nbsp;
but you'll see why I also tested this one later.

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This one was filled with water at 63.1° F or 17.3&nbsp;C.

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And after a failed start because it 
wasn't seated properly, it drew 1,420 watts from the wall

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and required 4 minutes and 15 seconds 
to hit my subjective definition of boiling.

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And it switched&nbsp;itself off at the 4 minute 35 seconds mark.

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So, both of these kettles require 
about 4 minutes of&nbsp;time to boil about a liter of water.

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And now it's time to see 
how much faster a right proper kettle&nbsp;is.

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This time the water was at 61.8° F or 16.6 C.

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And I want you to notice something here.

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This is&nbsp;just under 1 liter of water.

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And when I placed it in this kettle, 
the water line went up to about&nbsp;the 4.5 mark.

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That doesn't make any sense.

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So this is 4.5... what exactly?

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Oh, I found the answer.

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And&nbsp;having found it, I simply cannot resist pointing out

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that every kettle I have ever used 
here in&nbsp;the US tells you its capacity in liters.

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Yet, this British kettle has markings for,
 and&nbsp;I swear I'm not making this up,

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breakfast cups.

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Not an ordinary British cup, 
which is six&nbsp;imperial fluid ounces,

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but a British breakfast cup, 
which is eight imperial fluid ounces or 7.69&nbsp;US fluid ounces -

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That's right, our ounces, pints, and gallons 
aren't the same, in case you didn't&nbsp;know,

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or 227 milliliters.

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So, the next time any of you out there who speak metric get annoyed&nbsp;that I forgot to include a conversion for you,

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I want you to remember this little adventure&nbsp;
where we all learned what the [bleep] a breakfast cup is.

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Now, in fairness, I can't be too annoyed about&nbsp;
this thing using a weird non-standard cup

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because for us Yanks, 
although 8 ounces defines our&nbsp;standard cup,

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a cup of coffee is only 6 ounces.

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If you've ever wondered why your coffee pot 
has&nbsp;smaller than a cup cups, that's why.

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So, we've also got our fair share of strange customary units&nbsp;
for hot beverage purposes hanging around.

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And I suppose it's a fun coincidence that we've got 8&nbsp;oz standard cups and 6 oz coffee cups

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while the Brits have 
6 oz standard cups and 8 oz... breakfast cups.

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Actually, it's only through figuring out what this unit is on this kettle that I learned British cups&nbsp;are 6 ounces.

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What's going on there? You have 20 cups in an imperial gallon?

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At least our customary&nbsp;
units consistently work in powers of two.

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...until you get down to the teaspoon -

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Anyway, enough&nbsp;about strange units.

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How long does it take this British kettle to boil that water?

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Well, we have&nbsp;twice as much power 
going into this thing, so if the maths work out,

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it should only take about&nbsp;2 minutes.

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And whaddya know!

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It took 1 minute 55 seconds 
to hit my subjective definition of boiling.

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And it switched itself off at the 2 minute 10 second mark.

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That sure&nbsp;is quite a lot faster 
than what the other two can manage.

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And I suppose if you're a big tea drinking&nbsp;culture, it would be nice to shave a couple of minutes off the boiling time.

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But I still think&nbsp;it's kind of bonkers that shoving 3 kilowatts into a cheap plastic kettle is just a normal thing over&nbsp;there.

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But then I thought...

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what if we shoved 6kW into a cheap plastic kettle?

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Because you see,&nbsp;if I were to 
hook up an American kettle to 240 volt power,

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Ohm's law would dictate that it will&nbsp;consume twice as much current than it will from a 120 volt supply.

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And by also having twice as much voltage,

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that means its power draw will 
quadruple from 1,500 watts to 6,000 watts.

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And that's why&nbsp;I made this other adapter.

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This is a NEMA 6-20,

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one of the various 240 volt receptacles 
we have&nbsp;here, but which are rarely ever seen.

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And with a matching plug and a little bit of choppy choppy,&nbsp;
I can send 240 volts through these cheap kettles.&nbsp;&nbsp;

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And my charging station can supply up to 7.5 kW.

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So, it should have no trouble at all 
dealing with the 6 kW kettle I'm about to make.

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Now, obviously,&nbsp;don't do this at home for lots of reasons.

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One, I will be overloading the NEMA 6-20 slightly.

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The&nbsp;kettle's gonna draw about 24 amps 
when the receptacle and plug are only rated for 20.

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But&nbsp;even worse, the wires going to the kettle 
are going to be overloaded by quite a good deal.

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This is only 16 gauge wire, which should 
only really have 13 amps pushed through it,

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but we're&nbsp;doing 24.

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Now, honestly, the kettle 
should only run for about 1 minute before the water boils.

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So, I won't be overloading it for long at all, and I doubt any of the electrical connections&nbsp;are going to get very warm.

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But, I'll be shoving a stupid amount of power through a very small&nbsp;heating element inside a plastic kettle.

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So, you know, stuff might go wrong.

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Only one way to&nbsp;find out, though!

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I had a fire extinguisher at the ready

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and filled this kettle with my standard&nbsp;
not-quite-liter at 65 Fahrenheit, 18.3 C.

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The power switch did not latch correctly, so the start&nbsp;
wasn't perfect, but even still,

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this thing got the water boiling in just 55 seconds.

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Not such a slow&nbsp;kettle anymore, huh?

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You'll notice the water is boiling quite violently.

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I'm not sure it would be&nbsp;safe 
to actually fill this thing up all the way.

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But boy is it quick!

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And sure enough, it was&nbsp;powered for such a brief period of time that the power cord had barely warmed up at all to&nbsp;the touch.

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Now, I decided to do this again 
with a cleaner start and with colder water.

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This time,&nbsp;the water was 60.8 F, which is exactly 16 C.

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And well, if the colder water 
made a difference,&nbsp;it wasn't enough to tell.

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Because again, it was violently boiling by the 55 second mark,
and the kettle switched itself off about 7 seconds later.

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So, we learned a few things.

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One, this does&nbsp;indeed work to make a stupidly fast kettle.

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Two, it's probably not safe 
to fill this up with any&nbsp;more than a liter of water,

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or else it'll probably throw boiling water out of itself.

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And three,&nbsp;it survived long enough to do the test twice.

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But then I noticed something.

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Long after it had&nbsp;switched off,

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this steady stream of bubbles was coming up from where the heating element is bonded&nbsp;to its little support bracket.

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These bubbles kept going for several minutes, 
but there were no&nbsp;signs of an external leak.

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I thought it might be possible 
that a pinhole leak in the heating&nbsp;element had formed.

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See, everywhere else on the heating element 
is completely submerged in water,

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which will do a great job taking heat energy away from it.

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00:13:39,734 --> 00:13:47,590
But that little connection point there&nbsp;might have stayed dry enough for the heating element to melt a small hole in itself.

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And those&nbsp;bubbles might be the result of air 
inside the heating element being displaced with water.

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And if&nbsp;that is a leak, it would be very dangerous to use again.

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I decided to let this sit overnight full of&nbsp;
water so I could investigate this later.

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For now, I had another kettle to test.

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This one has its&nbsp;heating element bonded to the bottom of its stainless steel interior, which is a very common&nbsp;design.

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It can apparently handle 3 kW without an issue.

187
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But what about six?

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Well, again, only&nbsp;one way to find out!

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This kettle also only needed 
about 55 seconds to get the water boiling,

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but&nbsp;the water inside was boiling 
much more violently than the last kettle.

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You can quite clearly see&nbsp;the steam which activates the auto stop feature flying out near the power switch.

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Uh yeah, in case&nbsp;you didn't know,

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there's a bimetallic disc down here 
which will snap and shut the power off once&nbsp;it gets hot.

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And it's this tube here at the top which will direct steam down to that disc once the&nbsp;water is actually boiling

195
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that makes the disc snap and shuts off the kettle.

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Steve Mould taught me&nbsp;that.

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I picked the kettle up after it shut off and felt the bottom of it.

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To my surprise, it wasn't&nbsp;really warm at all.

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The electrical contacts were quite hot,

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but it didn't seem like the plastics&nbsp;
had gotten any more than slightly warm.

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Water is really good at absorbing heat energy,

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but&nbsp;I figured the embedded heating element would direct at least some of its heat downward at&nbsp;the base.

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If it did, it was hardly noticeable.

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But that's where the good news ends.

205
00:15:30,968 --> 00:15:35,686
I tried to&nbsp;do this again and discovered it ain't working no more.

206
00:15:35,686 --> 00:15:39,070
The neon indicator in the switch was still&nbsp;lighting up,

207
00:15:39,070 --> 00:15:41,382
but no more boily boily.

208
00:15:41,382 --> 00:15:44,763
So, this was a very fast kettle...

209
00:15:44,763 --> 00:15:46,003
once.

210
00:15:46,003 --> 00:15:48,398
Which is honestly what I&nbsp;expected.

211
00:15:48,398 --> 00:15:53,552
I figured these things would have some sort of thermal fuse which will blow if it gets&nbsp;too hot.

212
00:15:53,552 --> 00:15:57,597
Like for instance, if you switched it on without any water in it.

213
00:15:57,597 --> 00:16:01,406
And since this one only&nbsp;has the water 
on one side of the heating element,

214
00:16:01,406 --> 00:16:07,714
it stands to reason that 
6,000 watts of power&nbsp;simply got the fuse too hot.

215
00:16:07,714 --> 00:16:10,413
But I wanted to know why exactly it failed.

216
00:16:10,413 --> 00:16:16,190
And with the other kettle's&nbsp;mysterious bubbling, 
there were now two things to investigate.

217
00:16:16,190 --> 00:16:21,076
First, if this kettle has a thermal&nbsp;fuse, 
it's integral to the heating element.

218
00:16:21,076 --> 00:16:23,366
I don't see any sort of separate component.

219
00:16:23,366 --> 00:16:25,915
And when&nbsp;I checked the heating element with an ohm meter,

220
00:16:26,000 --> 00:16:30,067
it shows either open circuit or quite a few megaohms.

221
00:16:30,067 --> 00:16:32,756
However, it blew, it blew.

222
00:16:32,756 --> 00:16:38,628
The water simply couldn't pull the heat away 
quite as fast as it&nbsp;needed to, and this burnt itself out.

223
00:16:38,628 --> 00:16:41,832
But nothing down here seems like it got very hot.

224
00:16:41,832 --> 00:16:46,696
All the&nbsp;plastic looks undamaged, 
and I sure didn't smell anything during the test.

225
00:16:47,805 --> 00:16:53,239
That doesn't really&nbsp;matter as it's still broken,
but honestly, I expected a little more carnage.

226
00:16:53,239 --> 00:16:57,951
And now to see if&nbsp;this heating element 
was actually filling up with water.

227
00:16:57,951 --> 00:17:03,098
I removed it from the kettle and then used&nbsp;a 
Dremel tool to cut a slice through the heating element.

228
00:17:03,098 --> 00:17:05,789
I found absolutely no signs of moisture.

229
00:17:05,789 --> 00:17:10,276
And I even heated it up with a 
torch to see if any steam might come out.

230
00:17:10,276 --> 00:17:12,803
So I was apparently&nbsp;chasing a phantom there.

231
00:17:12,803 --> 00:17:16,575
That was probably just a nucleation site of some sort.

232
00:17:16,575 --> 00:17:21,506
However, cutting&nbsp;into this revealed that 
the magnesium oxide which fills the tube

233
00:17:21,506 --> 00:17:29,369
and maintains an insulating gap&nbsp;between the electrically conductive nichrome wire in the center and the steel sides of the tube,

234
00:17:29,369 --> 00:17:32,274
appears to have fused together.

235
00:17:32,274 --> 00:17:40,821
The last one of these that I cut through had the magnesium oxide&nbsp;escaping like sand, but here it's now all quite solid.

236
00:17:40,821 --> 00:17:47,775
I couldn't bend this any more than you see here because the tube seems to be filled with solid rock now.

237
00:17:47,775 --> 00:17:50,629
And honestly, that makes sense.

238
00:17:50,629 --> 00:17:56,326
The actual heat was coming from that 
nichrome wire in the center of this tubing.

239
00:17:56,326 --> 00:18:02,171
So, while the water&nbsp;could do a great job 
keeping the exterior of the tube relatively cool,

240
00:18:02,171 --> 00:18:06,012
the inside of the tube was&nbsp;getting stupid hot.

241
00:18:06,012 --> 00:18:11,377
Just for comparison's sake, 
the 7.5 kilowatt shop heater which started this&nbsp;project

242
00:18:11,377 --> 00:18:15,946
spreads those kilowatts between six heating element sections.

243
00:18:15,946 --> 00:18:20,123
This little coil here&nbsp;is about as long as just one of those,

244
00:18:20,123 --> 00:18:24,923
but it was producing nearly as much 
heat as the entire heater&nbsp;does.

245
00:18:24,923 --> 00:18:28,810
If we could have seen the insides of the tube while it was on,

246
00:18:28,810 --> 00:18:35,463
I'm sure it would have been&nbsp;glowing quite brightly, and I doubt this would have lasted more than a few more cycles.

247
00:18:35,463 --> 00:18:40,201
I was&nbsp;tempted to get another one of 
these kettles to see how long it might last,

248
00:18:40,201 --> 00:18:46,299
but that would have been&nbsp;effort 
and I already feel bad enough for murdering two of them.

249
00:18:46,299 --> 00:18:48,591
So, what have we learned today?

250
00:18:48,591 --> 00:18:52,041
Well,&nbsp;British kettles are indeed quite fast,

251
00:18:52,041 --> 00:18:57,443
but hook an American kettle up to 240 volts and it's way&nbsp;faster.

252
00:18:58,581 --> 00:18:59,662
Once.

253
00:18:59,662 --> 00:19:02,621
We also learned what a breakfast cup is.

254
00:19:02,621 --> 00:19:07,764
And we learned that Leviton makes this thing&nbsp;for some reason.

255
00:19:07,764 --> 00:19:12,915
Now if you live in North America 
and actually wanted to have a 3 kW kettle,

256
00:19:12,915 --> 00:19:20,635
one&nbsp;way you could do that is to ask an electrician to install one of these NEMA 6-20 receptacles in your&nbsp;kitchen.

257
00:19:20,635 --> 00:19:25,513
That's a bit easier said than done 
due to the requirement for GFCI protection in kitchens

258
00:19:25,513 --> 00:19:28,999
and the need for two free slots in your breaker panel,

259
00:19:28,999 --> 00:19:34,197
but with the appropriate breakers, 
it can&nbsp;be done safely and to code.

260
00:19:34,197 --> 00:19:39,659
That will allow you to use 
240 volt appliances with a relatively normal&nbsp;receptacle

261
00:19:39,659 --> 00:19:43,151
and not one of our various terrifying monster plugs.

262
00:19:43,151 --> 00:19:47,746
The next part though becomes some&nbsp;
flavor of sketchy no matter what.

263
00:19:47,746 --> 00:19:52,013
I cannot find any 240 volt kettles for sale here,

264
00:19:52,013 --> 00:19:56,542
which means&nbsp;you'll have to do 
what I did and import a British or European one,

265
00:19:56,542 --> 00:20:01,327
then chop off its plug and wire&nbsp;it to one of these.

266
00:20:01,327 --> 00:20:05,999
And the trouble there is again our split-phase power.

267
00:20:05,999 --> 00:20:09,809
Any kettle you might import&nbsp;will work just fine,

268
00:20:09,809 --> 00:20:15,271
but the neutral wires inside of it 
will not actually be wired to neutral any&nbsp;longer.

269
00:20:15,271 --> 00:20:18,930
They will be live at 120 volts to ground.

270
00:20:18,930 --> 00:20:24,164
Whether that actually creates a safety hazard&nbsp;
depends on a whole bunch of factors.

271
00:20:24,164 --> 00:20:32,630
And to be honest, since not all plug standards in Europe&nbsp;are actually polarized, I feel like most designs out there would be fine.

272
00:20:32,630 --> 00:20:39,083
But you will be committed&nbsp;to using an imported,
modified appliance that you stuck a different plug on.

273
00:20:39,083 --> 00:20:42,494
And insurance companies&nbsp;may not like that so much.

274
00:20:42,494 --> 00:20:44,489
So keep that in mind.

275
00:20:44,489 --> 00:20:48,768
If however you've got one of them fancy induction&nbsp;stoves,

276
00:20:48,768 --> 00:20:54,666
then any ordinary stovetop kettle
(that's compatible with induction cooktops of course)

277
00:20:54,666 --> 00:20:58,354
can&nbsp;be just as fast as this British kettle.

278
00:20:58,354 --> 00:21:02,443
In fact, possibly faster depending on your stove.

279
00:21:02,443 --> 00:21:04,863
I am&nbsp;talking proper stoves, though.

280
00:21:04,863 --> 00:21:12,980
Those plug-in induction hot plates are limited to the same&nbsp;power as a plug-in kettle, so don't expect those to save you any time.

281
00:21:12,980 --> 00:21:20,567
If you've got a built-in&nbsp;cooktop or range with induction burners, though, a stovetop kettle should be wicked fast.

282
00:21:20,567 --> 00:21:22,729
And you&nbsp;get the benefit of a whistle!

283
00:21:22,729 --> 00:21:24,368
What's not to like?

284
00:21:24,368 --> 00:21:27,954
Actually, while I know it's not really saving me&nbsp;any time,

285
00:21:27,954 --> 00:21:32,861
I have switched to a stovetop kettle
 which I use with an induction hot plate.

286
00:21:32,861 --> 00:21:38,998
I have a&nbsp;conventional radiant stove, 
which honestly I enjoy using more than my induction plate

287
00:21:38,998 --> 00:21:43,792
mainly because&nbsp;it has real knobs 
that are actually infinitely adjustable.

288
00:21:43,792 --> 00:21:49,159
But when I'm bringing water to a boil,&nbsp;
the induction plate is significantly faster.

289
00:21:49,159 --> 00:21:54,179
So, since I keep that thing 
next to my stove for&nbsp;making pasta or whatever,

290
00:21:54,179 --> 00:21:58,161
rather than take up 
even more counter space with a plug-in kettle,

291
00:21:58,161 --> 00:22:00,775
I&nbsp;just leave one of these things on there.

292
00:22:01,534 --> 00:22:07,478
But now, if I need to boil 
eight breakfast cups of water&nbsp;even faster,

293
00:22:07,478 --> 00:22:09,583
I'll just head out to the garage.

294
00:22:10,488 --> 00:22:12,998
♫ anglo-saxophonically smooth jaxx ♫

295
00:22:14,866 --> 00:22:16,342
Why am I doing this?

296
00:22:16,342 --> 00:22:20,562
...because of&nbsp;our 120 volt household voltage 
[bong from phone]

297
00:22:22,313 --> 00:22:23,586
oops

298
00:22:23,586 --> 00:22:29,713
...could have done the sensible thing which&nbsp;would be to build an adapter like this with a NEMA 6-20 receptacle

299
00:22:29,713 --> 00:22:32,427
and then cut the end off of&nbsp;this caaard

300
00:22:32,427 --> 00:22:34,357
coorrrd coorrd.

301
00:22:35,261 --> 00:22:36,000
Welp.

302
00:22:36,926 --> 00:22:39,226
We're having a hard time with this line today.

303
00:22:39,226 --> 00:22:43,161
First, if this kettle&nbsp;has a thermal fuse...

304
00:22:43,161 --> 00:22:44,972
I'm trying to pry it open.

305
00:22:44,972 --> 00:22:46,069
[laughs]

306
00:22:46,880 --> 00:22:49,804
Oh, I screwed it back&nbsp;together. I forgot I did that.

307
00:22:54,328 --> 00:22:55,529
Did I not - ugh

308
00:22:56,317 --> 00:22:58,452
That means I have to&nbsp;
take it apart again to film the

309
00:23:00,495 --> 00:23:04,047
I will never let go of this "breakfast cup" thing.

310
00:23:04,047 --> 00:23:08,653
Just had to invent and standardize a whole unit based on "a cup for drinking tea or coffee while eating breakfast," huh?

311
00:23:08,653 --> 00:23:11,897
And you actually put that on your kettles!

312
00:23:11,897 --> 00:23:14,071
Never again are Brits allowed to suggest 
American units are uniquely arbitrary and weird.

313
00:23:14,071 --> 00:23:15,358
Now go eat a crumpet.

